Episode Summary

In this episode, Max travels to Kökar, a tiny island in Finland’s autonomous Åland archipelago, where silence feels alive, and the Nordic light seems to glow from within. With only about 225 residents, Kökar is a place shaped by the sea, ancient history, and a deep sense of community.

Max shares stories from the island’s Bronze Age seal‑hunting camp, the eccentric baron who built a Mediterranean garden on a Baltic rock, and the bird migrations that funnel across the island in spectacular numbers. He also talks with Natalie Björk, who runs Brudhäll Hotel, about why visitors need at least three days to truly feel Kökar settle into their bones.

What You’ll Hear in This Episode

• Kökar’s ancient past and the 3,000‑year‑old seal‑hunting site at Otterböte
• Why the island’s light is legendary among artists and photographers
• How the community once pooled money to buy a shared fishing boat
• A visit to Källskär KYELL‑sher and its 9,000‑year‑old glacial stone sculpture
• The story of the Swedish baron who built a cliffside world of gardens and art
• Hiking the Kalen Trail, with forests rare this far north
• Exploring Hamnö HAM‑nuh, its monastery ruins, and kayaking in crystal‑clear water
• Why Kökar is a birdwatcher’s paradise with more than 200 species
• Local flavors: svartbröd, Koppskärs dricka, and Ålandspannkaka
• The magic of midsummer, when the sun barely sets

If You Go

• Stay:
• Brudhäll Hotel with sea‑view rooms and an outdoor jacuzzi overlooking the Baltic
• Sandvik Marina & Camping for cabins, tent sites, saunas, and kayak rentals
• Getting There:
• Ferries from mainland Åland or from Galtby on the Finnish side, both about 2.5 hours
• Stay on deck with a coffee. The birdwatching from the ferry is unforgettable.
• Best Time to Visit:
• Late June through early August for long days, warm cliffs, wildflowers, and midsummer celebrations

Why This Episode Matters

Kökar is not a place you rush through. It is a place that slows you down, opens your senses, and reminds you what it feels like to be fully present. The silence is not empty. The light is not ordinary. And the space feels endless.

This episode of the GoNOMAD Travel Podcast was hosted by Max Hartshorne and produced in South Deerfield, Massachusetts. Special thanks to Natalie Björk of Brudhäll Hotel for sharing her insight into life on Kökar. Learn more about Kökar Island at: https://www.kokar.ax

Explore the Åland Islands at: https://www.visitaland.com Read more travel stories on GoNOMAD: https://www.gonomad.com

Subscribe & Follow

If you enjoyed this episode, subscribe to the GoNOMAD Travel Podcast and explore more stories from the world’s most surprising places.

• Listen to more episodes
• Visit GoNOMAD.com

Mentioned in this episode:

Check out all of our other travel podcasts from around the world

This podcast is part of the Voyascape Travel Network, that brings together the world's best travel podcasts. You can find all of our podcasts from around the world at Voyascape.com. If you are interested in advertising or sponsored content on any of our shows you can find out more at the link below.

Voyascape Podcast Network

Check out the Smart Travel Podcast

This week's show is supported by the new Smart Travel Podcast. Travel smarter — and spend less — with help from NerdWallet. Check out Smart Travel at the Link below:

Smart Travel Podcast